Everyone knows New Zealand for Sauvignon Blanc. It’s one of the wine world’s greatest success stories. More attentive drinkers might be aware of the country’s excellent Pinot Noirs or increasingly brilliant Chardonnays. But before Sauvignon Blanc conquered the world, and before Pinot Noir had established itself, New Zealand’s reputation rested largely on aromatic white wines.
In New Zealand’s early wine era, the industry focused on fortified wines, supported largely by hybrids that cropped well at high sugar levels. As the country shifted towards dry table wines in the 1970s and early 1980s, varieties like Palomino and Müller-Thurgau gained in popularity before giving way to Pinot Gris and Riesling. Soon after, the rising stars of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay quickly eclipsed all other grape varieties, the former becoming not only the country’s dominant white grape but also accounting for the majority of all vineyard acreage.
Riesling and Pinot Gris each found early champions in New Zealand. Riesling was embraced by the pioneers of the Central Otago winegrowing region, who were initially unsure what could ripen there.
“From the word go [in Central Otago] the first plantings were Riesling,’ says winemaker Rudy Bauer of Quartz Reef. The industry’s ties to German and Swiss research universities such as Geisenheim and Wädenswil gave growers access to particularly good plant material for early Riesling plantings.
Meanwhile, in Martinborough, the tiny winery started by Neil and Dawn McCallum, Dry River, planted Pinot Gris from the start in 1979, and did much to popularize the grape in New Zealand. Their wines, made in a ripe Alsatian style with residual sugar, inspired many other producers around the country.
Like aromatic whites in many regions outside of Germany and Austria, New Zealand Pinot Gris and Riesling suffer from the problem you might call “sweetness surprise.” Unless explicitly labeled as dry (a few are), many of these wines leave consumers guessing as to where they will end up on the spectrum from bone dry to moderately sweet.
No one enjoys buying what they think is going to be a crisp white table wine only to find instead that they’ve got a bottle of something richly textured and moderately sweet on their hands.
Today, Pinot Gris and Riesling remain the third and fourth most planted white grape varieties in the country after Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. While Pinot Gris has slowly grown in its proportion of the overall grape mix in the country, from about 5% in 1995 to around 7% today, Riesling has been declining in acreage for some time, now occupying only 1.4% of vineyard land, versus nearly 4.5% three decades ago.
While the majority of the country’s Riesling and Pinot Gris are made into inexpensive bottlings by larger producers, a handful of fine wine producers remain dedicated to these grapes, even if they remain hard to sell and are often relegated to second or third place in winery portfolios.
That said, many of these wines are frequently compelling. The best Rieslings offer all the stony, zingy, citrus, and pear qualities that aficionados of the grape know and love. The top examples of Pinot Gris manage to balance similar crystalline qualities with richer flavors, placing many of them in the category of the more briskly styled versions of the variety found in Alto Adige, while some sweeter versions hew closer to the Alsatian style.
Though they languish in the long shadow cast by New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand’s best Rieslings and Pinot Gris are distinctive and are worthy of as much attention as any of the country’s top bottlings.
Tasting Notes
Unfortunately, these wines are frustratingly difficult to find here in the United States, even from the most well-known and established producers. Many are made in small quantities and don’t ever leave New Zealand’s shores. I have tried to provide prices and links to purchase below, but I’m sad to say that most wines do not seem readily available in the US, and therefore, I am also unable to determine their true retail prices, though most I would expect to be under $35 and many under $25.
Riesling
2024 Felton Road “Dry” Riesling, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of Asian pears, wet chalkboard, green herbs, and white flowers. In the mouth, brilliant and bright citrus oil, green apple, and Asian pear flavors have a fantastic stony backdrop and an electrically bright acidity. Mouthwatering and delicious. Organic & biodynamically farmed grapes. Ambient yeast fermentation and then aged for 5 months in stainless steel. Sterile filtered. 5 g/L residual sugar. 13% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $30. click to buy.
2024 Felton Road “Bannockburn” Riesling, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand
Near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of Asian pear, wet chalkboard, and white flowers. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of honeysuckle, Asian pear, green apple, and a hint of lychee have a nice crisp, mouthwatering acidity that accompanies a wet chalkboard minerality. Ambient yeast fermentation and then 5 months aging in stainless steel. Sterile filtered. 49 g/L residual sugar. 10% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2023 Rippon “Mature Vine” Riesling, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of a faintly flinty honeysuckle and jasmine flower perfume with a touch of wet chalkboard and freshly fallen snow. In the mouth, stony wet chalkboard minerality is scented with lime blossom and honeysuckle as Asian pear flavors linger for a long time in a stony finish. Crystalline and beautiful. Closed with a cork. Foot-crushed and left to macerate on skins overnight, then whole-bunch pressed into a settling tank for 12 hours. Racked with fine lees into a horizontal steel tank to ferment with ambient yeasts. Aged for 4 months on primary lees. 13% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $43. click to buy.
2022 Prophet’s Rock “Dry” Riesling, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet chalkboard and Bosc pear. In the mouth, Bosc and Asian pear flavors mix with lemon pith and a hint of grapefruit as notes of green apple and white flowers linger in the finish with a wet-pavement minerality. Lovely, balanced, and deliciously stony. Ambient yeast fermentation in neutral barrels. Aged 10 months on the lees. 12% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2020 Astrolabe Wines “Farm – Dry” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of honey, candied lemon, and a hint of paraffin. In the mouth, faintly salty candied lemon and honeysuckle flavors mix with wonderfully bright acidity and a lovely wet chalkboard minerality. Delicious! Whole-cluster pressed, free-run juice fermented with selected yeasts. 11.3% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2015 Framingham Wines “F-Series Old Vines” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Light gold in color, this wine smells of candle wax, wet pavement, and dried honey. In the mouth, wonderfully crystalline flavors of paraffin, candied lemon peel, Asian pear, and wet chalkboard have a crushed-quartz minerality, with a faint salinity that is hard not to love. Excellent acidity and length. Fermentation with ambient yeasts in neutral oak and acacia barrels. Aged 10 months on the lees. No S02 until blending. 13% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $40. click to buy.
2014 Maude “Maude Reserve – East Block” Riesling, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass to the point of being nearly colorless, this wine smells of Asian pear, mandarin orange slices in syrup, and wet chalkboard. In the mouth, the wine is beautifully mineral, with wet chalkboard, white flowers, Asian pear, and mandarin oil flavors that taste as if they are filtered through quartz. Crystalline and beautiful, with fantastic acidity. Lightly sweet. Dry-farmed. Foot stomped, then fermented in stainless steel. 46.3 g/L residual sugar. 9.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2024 Blank Canvas “Anandale Farm” Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand
Basically colorless in the glass, this wine smells of wet chalkboard and white flowers with a hint of mandarin oil. In the mouth, zingy flavors of mandarin, tangerine, and orange blossom have a wonderful, faintly-saline and faintly-sweet character that is positively mouthwatering. Excellent acidity and balance. Regenerative farming. AMW Certified. Whole-bunch pressed, with only free-run juice fermented cool in stainless steel with commercial yeasts. Fermentation stopped by chilling to retain 9% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2024 Greystone Riesling, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Near colorless in the glass with a hint of greenish gold, this wine smells of wet pavement and white flowers. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of Asian pear, mandarins, and white flowers have a nice crisp acidity and stony minerality. A classic kabinett-like profile. Very tasty. Certified organic grapes. Whole bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel tank with cultured yeast. Aged for 4 months in tank on lees. 21.5 g/L residual sugar. 12% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2024 Two Paddocks “Dry” Riesling, Alexandra, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet chalkboard and lemon cucumber. In the mouth, very stony flavors of wet chalkboard, lemon pith, and lime pith mix with a touch of honeysuckle. Manages to nicely walk the line between austere and fruity. Whole-bunch pressed with 12 hours of skin contact. Fermented slowly over the course of a month with ambient yeasts. Filtered. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $36. click to buy.
2023 Kusuda Riesling, Martinborough, New Zealand
Palest greenish gold in the glass to the point of being near colorless, this wine smells of struck match, wet chalkboard, and lime zest. In the mouth, lean stony flavors of lime and lemon zest mix with a hint of orange peel and a very compelling crushed rock and shell character that leaves a chalky sensation in the mouth. Just this side of austere. Whole-bunch pressed, fermented in stainless steel with cultured yeasts. 1.2 g/L residual sugar. 12% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $85. click to buy.
2023 Greywacke “Wairau Plains” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest greenish gold in color, this wine smells of flinty Honeycomb® cereal and mandarin oranges. In the mouth, bright, zingy mandarin flavors mix with honeysuckle and poached pear flavors. Excellent acidity and a faint stony underbelly round out a very tasty package. Whole-bunch pressed, cold-settled, then racked to fermentation vessels. Half of the wine was fermented with commercial yeasts in stainless steel, while the other half was fermented in old French oak with ambient yeasts. Both portions were transferred to stainless steel tank where fermentation was stopped to retain 19 g/L residual sugar. Aged for an additional 6 months in old oak before bottling. 12% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2022 Misha’s Vineyard “Lyric” Riesling, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of green apple and white flowers with a hint of lime. In the mouth, electric acidity makes lime and green apple flavors wonderfully stony and lean but not to the point of austerity. Lovely white flowers and lime zest notes linger in the finish. Whole-bunch pressed. 69% stainless steel fermentation, 31% fermentation in old oak barrels with ambient yeasts. 4.1 g/L residual sugar. 13% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2020 Astrolabe Wines “Grovetown Spatlese” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of candied green apples and honey. In the mouth, moderately sweet flavors of Asian pear, green apples, and honeysuckle have a faint mandarin oil quality, as well as a bright crystalline minerality. Whole-cluster pressed, free-run juice only. Fermentation stopped early to retain sweetness. 9% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2019 Greystone Riesling, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of honeysuckle, paraffin, and candied pears. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of poached pear, honey, and a touch of lemon pith have a nice crisp brightness thanks to excellent acidity and a chalky mineral undertone that lingers in the finish. Lovely. Certified organic grapes. 5% Botrytis bunches, whole bunch pressed, then fermented in stainless steel with cultured yeast. Aged 4 months on lees in tank. 23 g/L residual sugar. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2011 Misha’s Vineyard “Limelight” Riesling, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Light gold in the glass, and still showing a hint of green, this wine smells of honeysuckle and fresh pear. In the mouth, lovely fresh pear, honeysuckle, Asian pear, and other floral notes have a faint sweetness and lovely chalky mineral undertone. Very good acidity and length. Aging beautifully. Whole-bunch pressed. 86% inoculated stainless steel fermentation, 14% fermentation in old oak barrels with ambient yeasts. 25 g/L residual sugar. 11.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2024 Te Kairanga “Estate” Riesling, Martinborough, New Zealand
Palest gold, near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of mandarin oil and orange pith. In the mouth, electric acidity brings mandarin and lemon flavors alive with hints of Asian pear. Zippy and bright with a nice stony quality. Whole-bunch pressed and cool fermented in stainless steel. Fermentation stopped at 5.8 g/L residual sugar. Aged on yeast lees for 5 months. 12% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2024 Pegasus Bay Riesling, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of struck match and Asian pear. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of Asian pear, linalool, and honeysuckle have a faint wet chalkboard minerality to them and decent acidity. I would personally like a little more acidity here, but it’s hard to argue with the flavors. 12.5% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $52. click to buy.
2023 Framingham Wines “Classic” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, lime zest, and green apple. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of green apple, Asian pear, and a hint of tinned mandarin oranges have a nice bright acidity and hint of wet chalkboard character. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for 5 months in steel on fermentation lees. 12% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2023 Two Paddocks “Schatzi” Riesling, Alexandra, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass to the point of being near colorless, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, sweet lime juice, and a hint of green herbs. In the mouth, moderately sweet flavors of green apple, Asian pear, candied lime, and a touch of margarita mix have a bright chalky texture and excellent acidity. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented with ambient yeasts slowly over the course of a month. Fermentation stopped at 40g/L residual sugar, then racked and filtered. 9.5% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2014 Rippon “Mature Vines” Riesling, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand
Light to medium gold in the glass, this wine smells of baked and bruised apples and wet chalkboard. In the mouth, incredibly stony, crushed quartz flavors mix with bruised apples, lemon oil, and a faint salinity that accompanies excellent stony acidity. Wet chalkboard dryness lingers in the finish with a hint of lemon oil. Whole-bunch pressed and gravity fed into a settling tank for 12 hours. Racked with fine lees into horizontal steel fermentation tank, where it ferments with ambient yeasts. Aged 4 months on the lees before bottling. 11% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $n/a
2013 Blank Canvas “Blind River” Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand
Light to medium yellow-gold in color, this wine smells of candied lemon and candied pear. In the mouth, aromatically sweet flavors of golden apple, lemon peel, and Asian pear have a nice chalky minerality and a filigreed acidity. There’s an orange peel note that lingers in the finish. Lightly sweet. Whole-bunch pressed, free-run juice only fermented in stainless steel with commercial yeasts. Fermentation stopped to retain 9% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $n/a
2024 Astrolabe Wines “Farm – Dry” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of linalool and Asian pear with a hint of citrus pith. In the mouth, citrus pith, Asian pears, and winter melon flavors have a nice stony underbelly. Whole-bunch pressed, free-run juice only. Fermented with commercial yeasts. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2024 Maude “Maude Reserve – East Block” Riesling, Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand
Basically colorless in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers, cut grass, lemon cucumber, and wildflower honey. In the mouth, light to moderately sweet flavors of honeysuckle and pear have an unusual hint of toasted sesame as well as a tinned mandarin flavor. Decent acidity. Dry-farmed fruit. Foot stomped, stainless steel fermentation. 59 g/L residual sugar. 9% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2023 Valli Riesling, Waitaki Valley, New Zealand
Palest greenish gold in the glass, this wine smells of wet pavement and citrus pith. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of lime zest, green apple, and mandarin oranges mix with wet chalkboard minerality. Very good acidity that leaves a slightly austere chalky quality in the finish. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel with cultured yeast. 26 g/L residual sugar. 9.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2023 Brennan Wines Riesling, Gibbston, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of honeysuckle, Asian pear, and lime zest. In the mouth, lime and lemon zest and juice mix with Asian pear and mandarins in syrup, as a faint sweetness and bright acidity linger on the palate. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel. Aged 9 months on the lees before bottling. 11.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2022 Misha’s Vineyard “Limelight” Riesling, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest greenish gold in the glass, nearly colorless, this wine smells of honeysuckle, Asian pears, and poached pears. In the mouth, lightly sweet Asian pear and poached pear flavors have a nice stony underbelly and decent acidity to balance the sweetness. I would like slightly more acidity. Whole-bunch pressed. 61% stainless steel fermentation, 39% fermentation in old oak barrels with ambient yeasts. 28 g/L residual sugar. 11% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2017 Prophet’s Rock “Dry” Riesling, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass with a hint of green, this wine smells of wet stones, white flowers, lemon cucumber, and a hint of toasted oak. In the mouth, Asian pear, toasted oak, toasted sesame, and lemon pith have a nice chalky texture, but I’m not a huge fan of that toasty quality here. Decent acidity. Fermentation with ambient yeasts in neutral barrels. Aged 10 months on the lees. 11% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2024 Astrolabe Wines “Grovetown Spatlese” Riesling, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold, near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of honeysuckle, Asian pear, and mandarin pith. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of Asian pear and citrus have a nice crispness thanks to decent acidity. But with the sweetness, I’d like a little more zip to the wine. Whole-bunch pressed. Cold fermentation stopped early to retain sweetness. 12.5% alcohol. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $??
2023 Black Estate “Damsteep” Riesling, North Canterbury, New Zealand
A faintly hazy pale to light gold in the glass, this wine smells of faintly yogurty lemon and green apple flavors. There’s a lightly chalky grip to the wine with honeyed lemon notes and a touch of warm hay in the finish. Softer acidity than I would like. 13% alcohol. Score: around 8. Cost: $??
2017 Pegasus Bay “Bel Canto – Dry” Riesling, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Light yellow-gold in the glass with a hint of green, this wine smells of honey, faintly bitter orange peel, and dried herbs. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of lemon peel and Asian pear are intense and angular thanks to bright acidity. Somewhat hot or even spicy on the finish. Ultimately, a little unbalanced. 14.5% alcohol. Score: around 8. Cost: $??
2023 Sato Riesling, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand
A faintly hazy light gold in color, this wine smells of wet wool and lemon pith. In the mouth, chalky, almost powdery-textured flavors of lemon peel and unripe apples mix with a hint of warm hay. Very “natural-wine” in quality, without enough acidity. A blend of 85% whole-bunch press wine & 15% fermentation on skins. Ambient yeast fermentations in stainless steel (mostly). Aged 9 months on the lees and then blended and bottled without fining and filtration. 5.7 g/L residual sugar. 11.4% alcohol. Score: between 7.5 and 8. Cost: $35. click to buy.
Pinot Gris
2023 Quartz Reef “Pinot Gris” Pinot Gris, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of stony pear and pear skin. In the mouth, wonderfully crystalline flavors of pear, Asian pear, and wet river stones have a fantastic quartzlike clarity. Lovely stony notes linger in the finish along with pure pear loveliness. Fantastic acidity. Demeter-certified biodynamic and certified organic. Whole-cluster pressed then fermented in stainless steel with ambient yeasts. Aged 8 months on the lees in tank. 1.60 g/L residual sugar. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2019 Gibbston Valley “School House” Pinot Gris, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of wet chalkboard and white flowers. In the mouth, stony, crystalline flavors of pears, Asian pear, white flowers, and crushed quartz are wonderfully mineral and bright with excellent acidity. 14% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2015 Quartz Reef Pinot Gris, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of pears, wet chalkboard, and white flowers. In the mouth, wonderfully mineral flavors of crushed quartz, fresh pear, and Asian pear, as well as lemon pith, have an ethereal stony quality that is really compelling. Chalky textures linger in the finish with a sort of evaporated stone quality that is arresting. Fantastic acidity and remarkable complexity at 10 years-old. Demeter-certified biodynamic and certified organic. Whole-cluster pressed then fermented in stainless steel with ambient yeasts. Aged on lees for 8 months. 2.5 g/L residual sugar. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $n/a
2024 Maude “Estate” Pinot Gris, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold to the point of being near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of lemon blossom, Asian pear, and wet chalkboard. In the mouth, extremely bright, almost electric acidity makes flavors of lemon oil, pear, and pear skin bright and almost saline on the palate. Fantastically mouthwatering. Foot stomped in stainless steel and some barriques. 3.35 g/L residual sugar. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $??
2024 Ata Rangi Pinot Gris, Martinborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of white flowers, pear skin, and ripe pears. In the mouth, fresh and poached pear flavors have a nice lemon-zest brightness and a faint pear-skin chalkiness that lingers in the finish. Excellent acidity and minerality. Whole-cluster pressed straight to barrel or broad-bottom tank for lees contact while fermenting with ambient yeasts. A portion of the wine is fermented on the skins for 3 weeks. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2024 Escarpment Pinot Gris, Martinborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, lemon pith, honey, and ripe pears. In the mouth, pear skin and pear flavors have a nice lemony brightness to them, and a nice stony backdrop that leaves a clean chalky sensation in the finish with a hint of white flowers. Whole-bunch pressed and settled in tank. Clear juice racked to old barrels for fermentation with ambient yeasts. 2.4 g/L residual sugar. 13% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2024 Astrolabe Wines Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of white flowers, lemon peel, and linalool. In the mouth, white flowers, ripe pears, and linalool have a bright stony backdrop and a hint of citrus pith brightness as excellent acidity keeps things zippy on the palate. Crisp and fresh and floral. Free run juice, whole-cluster pressed. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $25. click to buy.
2023 Mahi Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon pith and fresh pear, some of which is slightly underripe. In the mouth, crisp and bright flavors of pear and white flowers have a lovely stony, wet chalkboard minerality and fantastic crispness thanks to excellent acidity. Whole-cluster pressed with only free run juice used. Fermented cool with ambient yeasts, then aged six months on lees. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $17. click to buy.
2023 Gibbston Valley “School House” Pinot Gris, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of poached pears, pastry cream, and white flowers. In the mouth, aromatically sweet flavors of pear, vanilla, lemon pith, and pear skin have a lovely stony, chalky quality to them, and a long, sweetly floral finish. Very charming, off-dry quality. Excellent acidity. Whole-cluster pressed, settled, and then fermented in acacia puncheons with ambient yeasts. Aged 12 months on full lees. 4.8g/L residual sugar. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2023 Prophet’s Rock Pinot Gris, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of poached pear, honeysuckle, and wet pavement. In the mouth, faintly sweet flavors of poached pear, vanilla, Asian pear, and a touch of citrus pith have a lovely pear skin and wet pavement chalkiness that lingers in the finish. Crisp, bright, and just slightly off-dry in character. Excellent acidity. Fermented with ambient yeasts in old oak barrels. Aged for 10 months on the lees. 14% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $??
2018 Astrolabe Wines Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemon peel, fresh pears, and a hint of struck match. In the mouth, pear and pear skin flavors mix with lemon oil and a lovely stony underbelly that lingers chalk-textured in the finish. Excellent acidity and length. Whole-cluster pressed, free-run juice only. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $24. click to buy.
2024 Pegasus Bay “Main Divide” Pinot Gris, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Light blonde-gold in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers and freshly cut Asian pears. In the mouth, Bosc and Asian pear flavors have a light sweetness to them and a lovely floral length. Very good acidity and a faint chalky texture make for a long, compelling finish. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2023 Astrolabe Wines “Discovery – Kekerengū Coast” Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Basically colorless in the glass, this wine smells of lemon blossoms and lemon pith with a hint of unripe pear. In the mouth, lean, and stony flavors of unripe pear, Asian pear, and white flowers mix with the faint bitterness of Asian pear skin as well as stony wet chalkboard minerality. Fairly austere, but with enough floral and fruity sweetness to be satisfying. Whole-cluster pressed. Free-run juice only. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2023 Greywacke Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of candied lemon and sweet poached pear. In the mouth, lightly sweet flavors of poached pear and fresh Bosc pear mix with a hint of lemon pith and pink grapefruit. Decent acidity and a slightly chalky texture linger with pear sweetness in the finish. Off-dry. Whole-bunch pressed. Cold-settled, then racked to fermentation vessels. Primarily ambient fermentation in old French oak barriques with the balance in stainless steel using cultured yeasts. Fermentation stopped to retain 12 g/L residual sugar. Aged in old oak barrels for 6 months on fine lees before bottling. 14% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2023 Valli Pinot Gris, Waitaki Valley, New Zealand
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of struck match and faintly sweet pear and lemon pith. In the mouth, pear, pear skin, lemon pith, and wet chalkboard have a stony brightness thanks to excellent acidity. A lovely chalky texture and its rumbling mineral counterpart linger in the finish. Lean. Whole-bunch pressed. 60% stainless steel fermentation, 40% neutral oak fermentation with 2 different cultivated yeasts. Less than 2 g/L residual sugar. 13.5% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2017 Prophet’s Rock Pinot Gris, Central Otago, New Zealand
Pale gold in color, this wine smells of vanilla, poached pears, and a touch of nougat. In the mouth, poached pear and lemon pith mix with pear skin and hints of other slightly bitter herbal notes, as nougat and pastry cream linger in the finish. Very good acidity. Fermentation with ambient yeasts in neutral barrels. Aged 10 months on the lees. 13.4% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $n/a
2011 Greywacke Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Light gold in color, this wine smells of candied lemon peel, candied orange peel, poached pear, and honey. In the mouth, honeyed flavors of candied citrus mix with poached pear and wet chalkboard minerality. Excellent acidity helps keep the rich, aged flavors from being cloying. Whole-bunch pressed. Cold-settled, then racked to fermentation vessels. Half of the juice was inoculated in a stainless steel tank, the balance racked into old French oak barriques for fermentation with ambient yeasts. Both portions were transferred to stainless steel, where fermentation was stopped at 10 g/L residual sugar. Aged for 5 more months in old oak on fine lees before bottling. 14% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $n/a
2024 Black Estate “Skypunch” Pinot Gris, North Canterbury, New Zealand
A faintly hazy, light greenish-gold in the glass, this wine smells of lemony pear and yellow herbs. In the mouth, pear, yellow herbs, lemon pith, and a hint of pink grapefruit have a chalky texture and wonderfully bright, mouthwatering acidity. That chalky texture lingers in the finish along with grapefruit notes. In organic conversion. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2023 Framingham Wines Pinot Gris, Marlborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in the glass, this wine smells of pears, honeysuckle, and pear skin. In the mouth, faintly sweet pear fruit is balanced by lightly bitter pear skin flavors over which lovely white flowers linger with stony notes in the finish. Very good acidity. Some parcels destemmed and given skin contact, others whole-cluster pressed. Fermented in a combination of stainless steel and old oak barrels with ambient yeasts. Held on full lees for 5 months before bottling. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $??
2024 The Landing Pinot Gris, Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand
Near colorless in the glass, this wine smells of white flowers and the comforting aroma of clean, warm felt and pear skin. In the mouth, zippy flavors of ripe pear and lemon oil have a bright, almost sharp quality, with a nice lingering citrus note in the finish and a hint of sweetness. Whole-bunch pressed, a mixture of free run and press juice is fermented with a combination of ambient yeasts and cultured yeasts in old oak barrels. Aged 2-3 months on fine lees before bottling. 13% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $25. click to buy.
2024 Te Kairanga “Estate” Pinot Gris, Martinborough, New Zealand
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of linalool, passionfruit, and white flowers. In the mouth, flavors of green apple and passionfruit are more akin to Sauvignon Blanc than Pinot Gris, making me wonder if Sauvignon Blanc yeasts have been used in the making of this wine. Very tropical with notes of guava and lemon pith lingering in the finish. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented with ambient yeasts in 500L French oak puncheons. Aged on the lees for 5 months. Fermentation stopped at 3.5 g/L residual sugar. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2023 Greystone Pinot Gris, Waipara Valley, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Light gold in color, this wine smells of pastry cream and poached pears. In the mouth, vanilla, pastry cream, and poached pear flavors have a faint wet chalkboard minerality and a chalky texture. Decent acidity. Certified organic grapes. Pressed and settled overnight, then fermented in a 95% stainless steel tank and 4% old oak barrels with cultured yeast. Aged 3 months on lees. 13.5% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2022 Misha’s Vineyard “Dress Circle” Pinot Gris, Bendigo, Central Otago, New Zealand
Palest gold in color, this wine smells of poached pear and pear skin. In the mouth, pear skin and poached pear flavors have a faint aromatic sweetness, as chalky and slightly herbal notes of pear skin and wet chalkboard linger in the finish. Nice minerality and decent acidity. Fruit is lightly crushed, then whole-bunch pressed. Free run juice fermented in stainless steel, with pressings and some free run (comprising 43% of the final blend) fermented in old French oak with ambient yeasts. 3.4 g/L residual sugar. 14% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $??
2023 Oraterra Pinot Gris, Martinborough, New Zealand
Light gold in color, this wine smells of honeyed pear and vanilla. In the mouth, vanilla, pear, and honeysuckle flavors are silky and weighty on the palate, with less acidity than I would like, leaving the wine a bit flabby. There’s a faint minerality here, but otherwise the wine is overly rich. Closed with a cork. Whole bunch pressed, lightly settled overnight, then racked into 1000L foudres to ferment with ambient yeasts. Aged on lees in stainless steel for 4 months. 14% alcohol. Score: between 8 and 8.5. Cost: $??
